Functional Analysis of Garments in 18th Century Burials from St. Michael’s Crypt in Vienna, Austria

The Michaelergruft in Vienna (St. Michael’s crypt), Austria, is located near the imperial palace Vienna and has been used between 1560 and 1784 by the local nobility of the city center in Vienna. The inventory of a large number of coffins has been preserved due to favorite environmental conditions, it offers the possibility to study specific details about the funeral customs of the 17th and 18th century in Central Europe. Selected burials dating to the 18th century from the Michaelergruft serve as case studies for developing new theoretical and methodological approaches in investigating the textiles and garments found in the coffins. Garments found in crypts usually are analysed due to costume history, aspects of conservation and preparation. Also textile analysis and modern analytical methods are applied to the material. In discussing the garments from St. Michael’s crypt, questions about the interpretation of the costume arise such as if they are “normal” daily life (or festivy) garments or specific funeral costumes. In the following paper criteria are discussed which enable to distinguish between “functional garments” worn also in daily life, “adapter garments” (daily life clothing that has been re-sewn, cut or altered to be used as garment for the dead), and “funeral costumes” that have been deliberately made.